Fabric & decoration
French terry vs fleece: choosing hoodie and sweatshirt fabric
French terry and fleece start as the same kind of looped-back knit. In French terry the loops are left intact, so it breathes better and suits mild climates and layering. In fleece the loops are brushed into a soft nap that traps air, so it is warmer and cosier but can shed and pill more.
Key takeaways
- Typical weight: French terry or brushed fleece, about 320–400 GSM (up to 480) in our hoodie specifications.
- French terry has unbrushed loops on the back, so it breathes and suits layering and mild weather.
- Fleece has brushed loops that form a soft nap, and the nap traps air for warmth.
- Sweatshirt cuffs and hems use a heavier rib, about 380–550 GSM.
- Hood drawstrings on children's hoodies are restricted in key markets, so check before specifying cords.
Most hoodies and sweatshirts are made from one of two fabrics: French terry or fleece. They look the same from the outside. The difference is on the inside, and it changes how the garment feels, how warm it is and how it wears over time.
How the two fabrics are made
Both are knitted with a smooth face and extra loops of yarn on the back. French terry leaves those loops unbrushed, so if you turn the garment inside out you see small, neat loops. Fleece is brushed after knitting, which raises the loops into a soft, fuzzy nap.
That one finishing step is the whole difference. In our hoodie specifications, both are typically 320–400 GSM (up to 480). The knit fabric and GSM guide shows where they sit against other knits.
French terry vs fleece compared
| Factor | French terry | Fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Inside surface | Visible loops | Soft, brushed nap |
| Warmth | Moderate | Higher at a similar weight |
| Breathability | Good | Lower, because it traps air |
| Hand feel inside | Smooth, slightly textured | Soft and cosy |
| Pilling / shedding | Usually less | Can be more; depends on finishing |
| Best seasons | Spring, autumn, mild climates | Autumn, winter, cold climates |
| Layering | Easy | Bulkier |
| Common uses | Fashion, athleisure, indoor uniforms | Outdoor wear, winter retail, school sweatshirts in cold regions |
When French terry is the better choice
- Mild climates or indoor use, such as staff sweatshirts worn in heated buildings.
- Active wear and athleisure, where breathability matters.
- Layering under jackets, where a brushed back adds bulk.
- Year-round ranges, where one fabric has to work across several seasons.
When fleece is the better choice
- Cold climates and outdoor work, where warmth comes first.
- Winter retail and loungewear, where a soft inside is part of the appeal.
- School sweatshirts in colder regions. See school uniform solutions and our guide to choosing school uniform fabrics.
Weight, shrinkage and pilling
Weight. A higher GSM gives a heavier, warmer, more structured garment, but it also uses more fabric per piece. Hoodies typically take around 0.55–0.85 kg each. See fabric consumption per garment.
Shrinkage. Looped-back fabrics can shrink, especially in length. Ask for pre-shrunk fabric and a wash test on pre-production samples. Our shrinkage guide explains why.
Pilling. Brushing raises fibre ends to the surface, so fleece can pill more. Fibre blend, yarn quality and finishing all affect the result. If durability matters, as it does for uniforms, agree a pilling test before bulk.
Trims and safety details
Rib for cuffs and hem is usually heavier than T-shirt rib, around 380–550 GSM. The hood lining can be self fabric or jersey.
Drawcords are restricted on children’s hoods in key markets, so check the Drawstring Safety Checker before specifying cords on kidswear. Zips and metal parts should be specified with your compliance requirements in mind; see EU and UK apparel compliance.
See typical specifications on our hoodies and sweatshirts page.
A buyer’s checklist
- Define the climate and how the garment will be worn.
- Choose French terry or fleece, then a GSM range.
- Specify the fibre blend — cotton, or cotton/polyester for durability and easier care.
- Ask for swatches and wash-test them.
- Specify rib weight, hood construction and drawcord rules.
- Agree shrinkage and pilling expectations before bulk production.
Final thoughts
French terry and fleece are two finishes of the same knit. Pick French terry for breathability, layering and mild weather, and fleece for warmth and a soft inside. Then set the GSM, blend and trims to match. If you tell us your market, end use and target feel, we can suggest fabrics and make samples for you to compare.