Manufacturing · Process
Eight stages. Each with its own checks.
Cut-and-sew knitwear behaves differently from woven fabric: it stretches, it relaxes, and it shrinks. Every stage below is designed around that.
Pre-production
Every order starts as data: size charts, fabric weight, shrinkage results and a graded pattern.
Tech pack review
We confirm the size chart, fabric weight (GSM) and shrinkage test report. Knit fabric shrinks after washing, so the shrinkage allowance is added to the pattern in advance.
Pattern making & grading
Base patterns are drafted in CAD and graded across your size range, calculating the fabric’s stretch and recovery in both directions.
Marker making
Markers are planned on the usable fabric width (tubular knit is usually slit and heat-set first) to calculate consumption in kg per piece.
Checks at this stage
- Shrinkage test results built into the pattern
- Graded pattern checked against the size chart
- Consumption per piece confirmed before fabric is ordered
Fabric inspection & relaxation
Fabric is inspected on the 4-point system, then left to relax for 24–48 hours before it is cut.
4-point inspection
Each roll is checked for skew, holes, shade variation, oil stains and barré, the faults most common in knit fabric.
Relaxation
Knit fabric is wound under tension. We unroll, shake out and lay it flat for 24–48 hours so it returns to its natural length. Skipping this causes severe shrinkage and distortion after the first wash.
Checks at this stage
- 4-point system on every roll
- Shade checked roll to roll
- 24–48 h tension-free relaxation before cutting
Spreading & cutting
Tension-free spreading and precision cutting, then every panel is counted, checked and bundled.
Spreading
An automatic tension-free spreader lays the fabric so panels are not pulled out of shape. Stripes and checks are pinned by hand to match.
Cutting
Panels are cut on straight-knife machines or an automatic CAM cutter. Rib for collars, cuffs and hems is cut separately with a band knife or round knife.
Panel check & bundling
Panels are counted, defective pieces removed, and bundles tied by size and colour with a barcoded process ticket.
Checks at this stage
- Tension-free spreading to protect panel size
- Stripe and check matching
- Defective panels removed before sewing
- Bundles ticketed by size and colour
Print & embroidery
Decoration is applied to cut panels, before they are sewn together.
Printing
Screen printing (plastisol, water-based, puff), direct-to-garment (DTG) and heat transfer.
Embroidery
Flat embroidery, chenille and appliqué (common on sweatshirts), stitched over water-soluble film or non-woven backing so the knit does not stretch.
Special finishes
Garment or piece washing for a vintage look, pleating and laser etching.
Checks at this stage
- Decoration position checked on panels before sewing
- Backing used under embroidery to prevent puckering
- Print colour and placement approved against sample
Sewing
Knitwear is sewn on overlock and coverstitch machines, because lockstitch alone would crack when the fabric stretches.
Shoulders & collar
Shoulders are joined on a 4-thread overlock with clear TPU tape to stop the neckline dropping. Rib collars are overlocked on, then topstitched with a 3-needle 5-thread coverstitch.
Polo plackets
Front placket opened, interfaced, folded, buttonholed and buttoned.
Sleeves & side seams
Sleeves are set on a 4-thread overlock, then the underarm and side seam are closed in one continuous run.
Hemming
Sleeves and hems are twin-needle coverstitched. Sweatshirts and pants have rib cuffs, leg rib and elastic waistbands joined on 4-thread overlock.
Hoods & zippers
Double-layer hoods assembled, drawcords threaded and metal or resin zippers set.
Checks at this stage
- Stretch seams on every knit join
- Shoulder tape in every T-shirt and polo
- Inline checks during sewing
- Reinforced crotch seams on pants
Pressing
Gentle steam finishing that restores loft and size without flattening the knit.
Steam finishing
Knits are sensitive to heat and pressure, which cause shine and crush the loops. We finish on steam form presses, or low-temperature steam irons through a protective mesh, to restore loft and even dimensions.
Checks at this stage
- No shine or crushed loops
- Garment dimensions even after pressing
Inspection & needle detection
Every garment is measured, checked and passed through a metal detector.
Final inspection
AQL sampling or 100% inspection: threads trimmed, key measurements taken piece by piece (chest, length, sleeve, neck width), and every garment checked for stains and holes.
Needle detection
All finished garments (especially children’s wear, school uniforms and orders for Europe and North America) pass 100% through a metal needle detector to ensure no broken needle fragments remain.
Checks at this stage
- Key measurements against the size chart
- AQL sampling or 100% inspection
- 100% metal needle detection
Packing
Folded to standard, bagged, labelled and packed by size ratio for export.
Packing
Hangtags attached, garments folded to standard and packed in individual polybags (vented and printed with a warning), size stickers applied, then packed by ratio into export cartons and sealed.
Checks at this stage
- Polybags vented and printed with suffocation warning
- Size stickers and carton ratio checked
- Moisture protection for export orders
RFQ · Tech pack or brief welcome