Develop & order
Garment sampling stages: proto, fit, PP and top samples explained
Most knitwear orders pass through a proto sample to see whether the idea works, one or more fit samples to get the fit right, a pre-production (PP) sample in the correct fabric and trims to confirm it is ready to produce, and a top-of-production sample taken from bulk to check that bulk matches. Each stage answers one question, so approve it against that question only.
Key takeaways
- Each sample stage has one job: concept, fit, production readiness or bulk confirmation.
- The PP sample should use bulk fabric, trims and decoration — it becomes the reference for production.
- Give fit comments as numbers against the points of measure, not words like “a bit tight”.
- A top-of-production sample confirms that bulk matches the approved PP sample before shipment.
Sampling is where most problems in a knitwear order are cheapest to fix. A wrong neck width costs one sample to correct at fit stage and a full order to correct after bulk. So it helps to know what each stage is meant to prove.
1. The sample stages at a glance
| Stage | Question it answers | Fabric & trims | Who approves |
|---|---|---|---|
| Proto (development) sample | Does the design work? | Closest available substitute | Designer / product team |
| Fit sample | Does it fit the body and the size chart? | Similar weight and stretch to bulk | Technical designer, on a fit model |
| Size set | Does the grading work across sizes? | Ideally bulk or near-bulk | Technical team |
| Salesman / photo sample | Can we sell or shoot it? | As close to final as possible | Sales / marketing |
| Pre-production (PP) sample | Is it ready to produce? | Bulk fabric, colour, trims, print/embroidery | Buyer, and it becomes the reference |
| Top of production (TOP) | Did bulk match the PP? | Taken from the production line | Buyer or inspector |
Not every order needs every stage. A repeat style may skip straight to PP; a private-label T-shirt on an existing block may need only one fit round. See OEM vs ODM for how starting from a factory block shortens development.
2. Proto sample: test the idea
The proto shows whether the construction, proportions and details work. Because bulk fabric has usually not been ordered yet, the factory makes it in the closest fabric it has.
Check the silhouette, neckline and collar style, seam types, pocket and placket construction, and print or embroidery placement. Don’t judge exact colour or hand-feel at this stage, because those come later.
3. Fit sample: test the measurements
The fit sample is measured against your size chart and tried on a fit model or form. This is where a clear tech pack pays off: each point of measure (POM) has a target and a tolerance, so comments can be objective.
Good fit comments look like this:
- “Chest ½ width 52 cm, target 54 cm — increase 2 cm.”
- “Neck drop too deep: front neck drop 10 cm, reduce to 9 cm.”
- “Sleeve twists after wash — check grain.”
For knitwear, ask for the fit sample to be measured after washing if the garment will be washed by the end user. Knit fabric relaxes and shrinks, and the pattern needs to carry the right allowance — see why knit garments shrink.
4. Size set: test the grading
Once the base size fits, the pattern is graded across the size range. At Jehotex, patterns are drafted and graded in CAD, taking the fabric’s stretch and recovery into account. A size set (one piece per size, or the smallest, base and largest sizes) confirms that the grade rules hold at the extremes, where problems such as gaping necklines or short bodies often appear.
5. PP sample: the production reference
The pre-production sample is the most important approval. Make it from bulk fabric out of the actual dye lot, at the agreed GSM, in the approved colour (after lab-dip approval; see colour approval and lab dips). Use the bulk trims too: labels, buttons, zips, drawcords and hangtags. The decoration should be final, whether screen print, embroidery or heat transfer, in the approved colours and positions. Construction should match production, with the same machines and stitch types used on the line.
Once approved and signed, the PP sample is sealed. Production, inline checks and final inspection all compare against it.
PP approval checklist
- Measurements within tolerance on every POM
- Colour matches the approved lab dip under the agreed light source
- Fabric weight and composition match the specification
- Labels: content, care, origin and size labels correct for the destination market
- Decoration position, size and colour correct
- Wash test result acceptable (shrinkage, twist, print adhesion)
- Packing method confirmed (fold, polybag, size sticker)
6. Top-of-production sample: confirm bulk
The TOP sample is pulled from the first finished garments. It shows whether bulk matches the PP sample before the whole order is complete, so any drift in colour, measurements or decoration can still be corrected. It is often reviewed alongside an inline or pre-final inspection; see knitwear quality control.
7. How to keep sampling short
| Habit | Why it helps |
|---|---|
| Send a complete tech pack first | Fewer guesses in the proto |
| Send a reference garment you like | Removes ambiguity on fit and hand-feel |
| Comment in numbers, with photos | Faster, objective corrections |
| Approve colour in parallel with fit | Lab dips don’t wait for the fit to be finished |
| Consolidate comments from your team | One clear list per round, not three conflicting ones |
| Agree what changes need a new sample | Small fixes can be confirmed by photo |
Our production process shows where each sample fits into the eight production stages, and our OEM/ODM page explains how development starts.
Final thoughts
Sampling is not a formality before production. It is the production plan, tested. Give each stage a single question to answer, comment in measurements instead of impressions, and treat the signed PP sample as the contract for how the bulk should look. That usually saves more time than any shortcut in the sampling calendar.